VPLL Dress #4016, First Post 2

The race is ON! Done for the June 9th Portland Rose Festival Parade or BUST!

I promised to loan my Skirt #0162 outfit to a friend to wear in the parade with us, so I want to dig into this and complete this one with enough time left to *not Panic*.  Here’s the image:

The description is helpful since there are no instructions:
“This dress features welt trim and a cutwork collar. It is without instructions, so 25 points.” 

Today I assembled the pattern printer pages and traced. Pattern pieces:

  • Collar, center back fold and a curved seam. The photo looks like the front  edges meet at the center, marked with a number 56. I’d guess it will meet a number 65, the center Vee point of the Bodice panel. There is a 3/8″ line that looks like a seam allowance, so I will cut two and use my best heirloom skills. 😉
  • Collar overlay, another collar layer that includes the cutwork, very pretty. In order to finish this on time for the parade, I may try to incorporate some shortcuts here.  Here’s an image of these two pieces. Sorry it is warm now in my attic, the ball point ink smeared, so I used other markers after this.

Collar patterns, embroidery over collar

  • Bodice Panel, the narrow strip that shows as light fabric in the image. It is deeply Vee’d, not so obvious in the photo, and it is cut with a center fold.
  • Skirt Front,  another very narrow panel, continuation of the bodice panel. There is a note to lap the skirt sides to an inset line, forming the pleat I can imagine seeing, looks like an inch.
  • Skirt Sides, a couple of flaring panels, with trim placement markings and a note to leave the left front open above a marked point. Now, the think in advance about facing, reinforcement, interfacing?
  • Skirt Back, similar to the skirt sides, cut on the fold, fold line up the center back. The trim placement lines are continued from the side panels. I’m thinking I’ll sew the trim on after those side and back panel seams are in place.
  • Cuff, trim placement marked.
  • Welt Trim, guessing pretty much entirely on this. I think I’ll start musing on bias strips of the fabric, which has a weave. It is 3/4″, so folded, with 1/4″ seam allowance, would give me several yards of 2″ lengths. Hmm, maybe slash the skirt along those placement lines? Sew on top, fold and press?
  • Now, the surprise piece…Front, back and sleeves, all in one!

    Dress #4016, bodice and sleeve pattern

This piece is cut with a fold up the center back, so the front will be biased. Figuring sleeve length and shoulder placement, bust fitting, etc., makes this a strong candidate for *not skipping* the muslin step.

Fabric– I want to use some of the Pendleton mini-houndstooth light weight tropical wool, with the solid cream wool for the inset panel.

Buttons– I have plenty of covered buttons already, unfortunately, all 3/8″, when it looks like I need 3/4, around the bodice, half a dozen, another half dozen around the skirt trim, and four smaller ones on the cuffs.

The *Deep Breath* parts so far are- that Collar embroidery, the trim (WELT?!), and fitting.  I should do some research into what the welt implies about construction. I bet someone in our group has strong opinions on this. 🙂 I hope so!

Next, measuring for alterations, etc.

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2 comments

  1. I will be watching to see how this turns out. I also received this pattern to complete. I consider myself an experienced seamstress, but it is a bit intimidating without instructions. ….Nice challenge!
    Good luck!

  2. Pingback: 1912 Dress #4016 Summary! « domesticnews

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