Dress #4016- Pattern Measurements 12

Wrong 2 inch overlap

Pattern Measurements, Altering Necessary for Me! This morning I measured the pieces, checking for seams aligning. They all looked fine, nothing glaringly mismatched (seam allowances aren’t included; I’ll add them later). The numbers did dig out a couple of problems, though.  Hip alert! I have rechecked and found I’d goofed on the front tucks- they are not 1″ overlapped. They are 1/2″” overlap, 1″ on each side, only a 2″ circumference reduction.  Here is a summary (corrections!).

corrected front panel overlap

You can see the offending confusion- the 1″ lap mark on the front bodice panel, and the corrected placement, pretty obvious, when you look at it. Turns out the collar should be fine as drawn! Sheesh. I am perfect for this project, finding likely tripping points and clearing them up! 😉 Please let me know if you find errors!!

Correct overlap close-up

Okay, back to the Summary:
–Waist- 25″
–Hip: 33.25″
–Skirt Length: 32.75″
– Bust circumference: 39″
– Front length: 49″
– Back Length: 47 1/8″
–Sleeve: 13 3/8″
– Neck- 14″

  • Waist25″. Sides were 12.5” (7.25″ each, then subtracting 1/2″ lap, 1″ folded on each side, not 2″!!, from sides onto the front), front 3.5″, back 9″ (4.5″ folded). Remember, this is above the “natural Waist”, big contrast to the dropped, Hippy look popular now. ;-

    Collar fits!

    I will still need some wiggle room, not planning to wear a corset this time. aah…

    4016 waist & Hip patterns

  • Hip (7″ down from natural waist): 33.25″. Oh dear- this is a big alert for me, mine are bigger!  16.75″ for both sides (9 3/8″ each, 1” lap removed), 13″ across folded back, and front unchanged, 3.5″. Hoo-boy, Even a corset wouldn’t squeeze those hips up into the pigeon chest. Sorry about the smudges- I had to double TRIPLE! check this!
  • Skirt Length– 32.75″ down the front panel, 33.75″ down side-back seam & center back. I expect that’ll curve out and over those hips some.  This may benefit from hanging to allow for any bias stretching, before hemming. This looks too long for me, considering the image. No surprise there.
  • Bust circumference 39″.

    4016 Bodice

    The bust flares, so I measured the bodice across, at 10″ down, top of the middle trim insertion. This is 9 3/4″ across, giving 8 3/4″ each side, after 1″ lap subtraction. Bodice front panel is 4″, fold opened. Back bust (chest)- 8.75″ each side (1″ lap subtracted), center fold to the sleeve insertion, total, 17.5″ across.

  • Front length– 49″ Shoulder to waist seam- 16 3/8″, skirt- 32 5/8″. Hmm- this must allow for considerable blousing on that front piece.
  • Back Length– 47 1/8″. This is 13 3/8″ bodice back + 33 3/4″ center back. So, the difference is 1″ longer skirt, and  1 7/8″ overall shorter, so that front must blouse 2 7/8″.
  • Sleeve– 13 3/8″ from neck to seam. The cuff is turned back, doesn’t add to the length. The sleeve is 13″ around at the cuff seam. Neck– 14″. I’m not sure what brought my attention to this, looks more like a dropped V in the image. You might want to check yours for comfort.

    bodice neck edge

  • Collar– Okay, this’ll need checking. The neck edge measures 14″ on the bodice (including front panel), looks like ~8.5″, opened to 17″ on the collar, though there isn’t a clear seam end on the front curve. The front center pattern point (56) numbers match. It looks like there is considerable easing in on the collar piece, must make it roll nicely. This should be fitted before starting any intensive embroidery! I wonder if this collar was made as a detachable one, with a facing attached that would somehow snap/button/hook to the dress?

4016 collar seam close up

Next, alterations!

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12 comments

  1. Thanks- this is INCREDIBLY useful information- and holy crow, 31″ hip?!? Is the skirt cut on the bias at least? (Maybe not- I don’t think bias cutting was terribly popular yet, but maybe…? I just noticed your note about hanging it out for stretching.) I’m sure I’m not telling you anything you don’t know, but if it’s bias, you’ll want to cut it on the long side. I have a 1930’s dress that when hanging does appear to measure about 30″ across the hip, but also hangs long enough for someone about 6′ tall. However, when I put it on, it slips smoothly over my 41″ derriere and comes well above ankle length on my 5’6″ frame. I’ve got this particular dress pattern on order, so I’ll be following your technical notes closely!

    • Ronnie,
      Holy cow indeed!! I just found the mistake I made on that 31″ hip!! The overlap of side pieces onto the front panel- those are 1/2″ tucks, not 1″, so doubled=1″, for both sides, 2″. Madly Correcting!!

      About the skirt bias- front is a narrow panel- no bias there, back is folded down the middle on the straight of grain, and the side panels may be the only place that gives, straight of grain down the front lap, flaring out toward the back side seam. I thought about this because the back skirt is slightly longer, I thought to take some of the hip expansion. This may really need a muslin.

      I love your note about the ’30’s dress! I made a 1951 Advance Pattern slip, showed it to my quilting group and they commented on how narrow it was. 🙂 Same thing- the bias is very comfortable and forgiving, even flattering! *But, the original pattern layout was straight of grain- Clearly an error!! 😉

  2. I’m starting to wonder if this is a young miss dress? even with the corrections the hips are alarmingly slim. Well all my additions will be from the waist down unless I just opt to make it 1/2 size for grins.
    regards,
    Theresa

    • Theresa, I noticed that there wasn’t much wiggle room (up & down, think shrugging shoulders or reaching up)in the blouse I just finished with a similar bodice. I should have added more length, a little front, a little back. This one may need that, too. And I usually think of myself as “short-waisted”!

      • Having made Victorian apparel I know that shrugging and reaching weren’t lady like activities and almost impossible to perform LOL.The blouse I made hit my waist correctly. However,I’m probably shorter than you (5’2″) and short waisted. If I was thinner I’d have more or less the teen era ideal proportions, but that dress is crazy slim.
        I doubt that I ever had 34 inch hips even when I weighed 108 pounds! I think a muslin is in order here for sure.

        regards,
        Theresa

      • Right :-). Even skinny after surgery a long time ago, I always had the hip jodhpurs. 🙂
        Maybe I shouldn’t worry about the restricted bodice movement. I’ll be sure to remind the woman I’m loaning the last dress to for a parade- no cartwheels! 🙂

  3. Pingback: 1912 Dress #4016 Summary! « domesticnews

  4. Becky, I just printed out my pdf for this one…. I am amazed at how much you accomplished and how fabulous it looks. You are one talented woman! ‘We’re not worthy’ as I bow in your direction

    • To CostumeDeeva— From a costumer, that is high praise! Humility alert! 🙂 You know- “It doesn’t have to BE Right, just has to Look Right”? I’m really glad if my snafu’s can help somebody else to skip them. 🙂

      Now, what’s next, a blouse I think…hmm, which one? I really enjoyed sewing down the side of skirt #0162, and the collar embroidery on this one, too. I think one of our blouses had eyelets on the collar and something like a peplum- Maybe that one!

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