These have to be the most complicated cuffs I’ve ever made (never did make those men’s shirt cuffs from David Page Coffin’s class).
Every mistake I could make I think I did! The cuff needs to be sewn counter-intuitively, right side to inside of the sleeve, cuff seam away from the sleeve seam. I’d inserted a shoulder seam and those two needed to be aligned. Usually I’d match the sleeve and cuff seams, did that and needed to rip and fix it. There’s a series of steps, petty tricky for somebody watching the clock:
- First I hauled the dress fabric back out for those bias strips, decided on 2″: 3/4’s folds and 1/4″ seam allowance. I ran a quick measure of the skirt panels, bodice and sleeve strips, think I’ve cut enough for all of them.
- Strip placement is tricky at best. I decided to wait on the skirt strips until I’ve sewn the waist seam. I remember wishing I’d thought of adjusting the back pleat height to break at the knee on dress #0162. When you look at this dress image, her legs are longer than I am tall (and those feet are teensy!). More on that later.
- I finished the cuff facing edge and pressed it.
- Bias piping for the cuff edge, nice, better when pressed.
- The cuff looks inside out, then finished, but easy to mess up the seams here. the finished cuff side gets sewn to the inside sleeve. Rats- That stabilizing tape will have to be hidden. I’ll press the cuff to hang a bit low to cover.
- Finished edges align, with considerable trimming of bulk, probably smarter to use thin lining fabric for the cuff.
- Sewing the bias strips on with a walking foot is So Much Smoother!
Use an edging foot to sew down the piping, really helps.