Dress #4016- Pattern Measurements 12

Wrong 2 inch overlap

Pattern Measurements, Altering Necessary for Me! This morning I measured the pieces, checking for seams aligning. They all looked fine, nothing glaringly mismatched (seam allowances aren’t included; I’ll add them later). The numbers did dig out a couple of problems, though.  Hip alert! I have rechecked and found I’d goofed on the front tucks- they are not 1″ overlapped. They are 1/2″” overlap, 1″ on each side, only a 2″ circumference reduction.  Here is a summary (corrections!).

corrected front panel overlap

You can see the offending confusion- the 1″ lap mark on the front bodice panel, and the corrected placement, pretty obvious, when you look at it. Turns out the collar should be fine as drawn! Sheesh. I am perfect for this project, finding likely tripping points and clearing them up! 😉 Please let me know if you find errors!!

Correct overlap close-up

Okay, back to the Summary:
–Waist- 25″
–Hip: 33.25″
–Skirt Length: 32.75″
– Bust circumference: 39″
– Front length: 49″
– Back Length: 47 1/8″
–Sleeve: 13 3/8″
– Neck- 14″

  • Waist25″. Sides were 12.5” (7.25″ each, then subtracting 1/2″ lap, 1″ folded on each side, not 2″!!, from sides onto the front), front 3.5″, back 9″ (4.5″ folded). Remember, this is above the “natural Waist”, big contrast to the dropped, Hippy look popular now. ;-

    Collar fits!

    I will still need some wiggle room, not planning to wear a corset this time. aah…

    4016 waist & Hip patterns

  • Hip (7″ down from natural waist): 33.25″. Oh dear- this is a big alert for me, mine are bigger!  16.75″ for both sides (9 3/8″ each, 1” lap removed), 13″ across folded back, and front unchanged, 3.5″. Hoo-boy, Even a corset wouldn’t squeeze those hips up into the pigeon chest. Sorry about the smudges- I had to double TRIPLE! check this!
  • Skirt Length– 32.75″ down the front panel, 33.75″ down side-back seam & center back. I expect that’ll curve out and over those hips some.  This may benefit from hanging to allow for any bias stretching, before hemming. This looks too long for me, considering the image. No surprise there.
  • Bust circumference 39″.

    4016 Bodice

    The bust flares, so I measured the bodice across, at 10″ down, top of the middle trim insertion. This is 9 3/4″ across, giving 8 3/4″ each side, after 1″ lap subtraction. Bodice front panel is 4″, fold opened. Back bust (chest)- 8.75″ each side (1″ lap subtracted), center fold to the sleeve insertion, total, 17.5″ across.

  • Front length– 49″ Shoulder to waist seam- 16 3/8″, skirt- 32 5/8″. Hmm- this must allow for considerable blousing on that front piece.
  • Back Length– 47 1/8″. This is 13 3/8″ bodice back + 33 3/4″ center back. So, the difference is 1″ longer skirt, and  1 7/8″ overall shorter, so that front must blouse 2 7/8″.
  • Sleeve– 13 3/8″ from neck to seam. The cuff is turned back, doesn’t add to the length. The sleeve is 13″ around at the cuff seam. Neck– 14″. I’m not sure what brought my attention to this, looks more like a dropped V in the image. You might want to check yours for comfort.

    bodice neck edge

  • Collar– Okay, this’ll need checking. The neck edge measures 14″ on the bodice (including front panel), looks like ~8.5″, opened to 17″ on the collar, though there isn’t a clear seam end on the front curve. The front center pattern point (56) numbers match. It looks like there is considerable easing in on the collar piece, must make it roll nicely. This should be fitted before starting any intensive embroidery! I wonder if this collar was made as a detachable one, with a facing attached that would somehow snap/button/hook to the dress?

4016 collar seam close up

Next, alterations!

Skirt #0162 finished! 2

Last finishing bits:

The Hem:
I wanted a little more body so I sewed in horse hair, then covered it with a sheer ribbon, in case I start kicking up my heels. 🙂 This would have been so much easier with black horse hair, but I didn’t find any…


The Placket:
It needed reinforcing but I didn’t want more bulk, so I used a black cotton twill tape.  The waist band looked better when I took the elastic off and refitted it, pretty bulky though, with the twill tape! In an earlier blog, a pucker showed on the placket, so I took it apart and restitched it.

I like the buttons. What I would do differently? Those back buttons should hit higher on me, just at the knee, and they are lower. Next time! If you are fitting, I’d choose where that pleat starts and move it, if you need to!
But the skirt is done, ready for this Saturday, an Oregon Suffragette! Watch for finishing the shirtwaist & hat…

Pattern Maker 7 Reply

I am playing with Pattern Maker 7, altered the basic pants pattern to see how well it works.
Printing snafus– all pages print, but only a couple out of 36 include pattern lines. All printed column, row and match point markers – geez, 34 basically blank pages. I’ll have find the print preview option to stop wasting paper! I wonder just how much comes with the free basic download. Somewhere between free and $2,500 I’ll find my sweet spot.

I ordered Butterick 4254 that somebody in our 1912 group recommended. That BMV patttern club helps cut cost. Butterick, MacCalls, Vogue and some others. Wish they carried Burda.