Dress #4016- Pattern Measurements 12

Wrong 2 inch overlap

Pattern Measurements, Altering Necessary for Me! This morning I measured the pieces, checking for seams aligning. They all looked fine, nothing glaringly mismatched (seam allowances aren’t included; I’ll add them later). The numbers did dig out a couple of problems, though.  Hip alert! I have rechecked and found I’d goofed on the front tucks- they are not 1″ overlapped. They are 1/2″” overlap, 1″ on each side, only a 2″ circumference reduction.  Here is a summary (corrections!).

corrected front panel overlap

You can see the offending confusion- the 1″ lap mark on the front bodice panel, and the corrected placement, pretty obvious, when you look at it. Turns out the collar should be fine as drawn! Sheesh. I am perfect for this project, finding likely tripping points and clearing them up! 😉 Please let me know if you find errors!!

Correct overlap close-up

Okay, back to the Summary:
–Waist- 25″
–Hip: 33.25″
–Skirt Length: 32.75″
– Bust circumference: 39″
– Front length: 49″
– Back Length: 47 1/8″
–Sleeve: 13 3/8″
– Neck- 14″

  • Waist25″. Sides were 12.5” (7.25″ each, then subtracting 1/2″ lap, 1″ folded on each side, not 2″!!, from sides onto the front), front 3.5″, back 9″ (4.5″ folded). Remember, this is above the “natural Waist”, big contrast to the dropped, Hippy look popular now. ;-

    Collar fits!

    I will still need some wiggle room, not planning to wear a corset this time. aah…

    4016 waist & Hip patterns

  • Hip (7″ down from natural waist): 33.25″. Oh dear- this is a big alert for me, mine are bigger!  16.75″ for both sides (9 3/8″ each, 1” lap removed), 13″ across folded back, and front unchanged, 3.5″. Hoo-boy, Even a corset wouldn’t squeeze those hips up into the pigeon chest. Sorry about the smudges- I had to double TRIPLE! check this!
  • Skirt Length– 32.75″ down the front panel, 33.75″ down side-back seam & center back. I expect that’ll curve out and over those hips some.  This may benefit from hanging to allow for any bias stretching, before hemming. This looks too long for me, considering the image. No surprise there.
  • Bust circumference 39″.

    4016 Bodice

    The bust flares, so I measured the bodice across, at 10″ down, top of the middle trim insertion. This is 9 3/4″ across, giving 8 3/4″ each side, after 1″ lap subtraction. Bodice front panel is 4″, fold opened. Back bust (chest)- 8.75″ each side (1″ lap subtracted), center fold to the sleeve insertion, total, 17.5″ across.

  • Front length– 49″ Shoulder to waist seam- 16 3/8″, skirt- 32 5/8″. Hmm- this must allow for considerable blousing on that front piece.
  • Back Length– 47 1/8″. This is 13 3/8″ bodice back + 33 3/4″ center back. So, the difference is 1″ longer skirt, and  1 7/8″ overall shorter, so that front must blouse 2 7/8″.
  • Sleeve– 13 3/8″ from neck to seam. The cuff is turned back, doesn’t add to the length. The sleeve is 13″ around at the cuff seam. Neck– 14″. I’m not sure what brought my attention to this, looks more like a dropped V in the image. You might want to check yours for comfort.

    bodice neck edge

  • Collar– Okay, this’ll need checking. The neck edge measures 14″ on the bodice (including front panel), looks like ~8.5″, opened to 17″ on the collar, though there isn’t a clear seam end on the front curve. The front center pattern point (56) numbers match. It looks like there is considerable easing in on the collar piece, must make it roll nicely. This should be fitted before starting any intensive embroidery! I wonder if this collar was made as a detachable one, with a facing attached that would somehow snap/button/hook to the dress?

4016 collar seam close up

Next, alterations!

VPLL Dress #4016, First Post 2

The race is ON! Done for the June 9th Portland Rose Festival Parade or BUST!

I promised to loan my Skirt #0162 outfit to a friend to wear in the parade with us, so I want to dig into this and complete this one with enough time left to *not Panic*.  Here’s the image:

The description is helpful since there are no instructions:
“This dress features welt trim and a cutwork collar. It is without instructions, so 25 points.” 

Today I assembled the pattern printer pages and traced. Pattern pieces:

  • Collar, center back fold and a curved seam. The photo looks like the front  edges meet at the center, marked with a number 56. I’d guess it will meet a number 65, the center Vee point of the Bodice panel. There is a 3/8″ line that looks like a seam allowance, so I will cut two and use my best heirloom skills. 😉
  • Collar overlay, another collar layer that includes the cutwork, very pretty. In order to finish this on time for the parade, I may try to incorporate some shortcuts here.  Here’s an image of these two pieces. Sorry it is warm now in my attic, the ball point ink smeared, so I used other markers after this.

Collar patterns, embroidery over collar

  • Bodice Panel, the narrow strip that shows as light fabric in the image. It is deeply Vee’d, not so obvious in the photo, and it is cut with a center fold.
  • Skirt Front,  another very narrow panel, continuation of the bodice panel. There is a note to lap the skirt sides to an inset line, forming the pleat I can imagine seeing, looks like an inch.
  • Skirt Sides, a couple of flaring panels, with trim placement markings and a note to leave the left front open above a marked point. Now, the think in advance about facing, reinforcement, interfacing?
  • Skirt Back, similar to the skirt sides, cut on the fold, fold line up the center back. The trim placement lines are continued from the side panels. I’m thinking I’ll sew the trim on after those side and back panel seams are in place.
  • Cuff, trim placement marked.
  • Welt Trim, guessing pretty much entirely on this. I think I’ll start musing on bias strips of the fabric, which has a weave. It is 3/4″, so folded, with 1/4″ seam allowance, would give me several yards of 2″ lengths. Hmm, maybe slash the skirt along those placement lines? Sew on top, fold and press?
  • Now, the surprise piece…Front, back and sleeves, all in one!

    Dress #4016, bodice and sleeve pattern

This piece is cut with a fold up the center back, so the front will be biased. Figuring sleeve length and shoulder placement, bust fitting, etc., makes this a strong candidate for *not skipping* the muslin step.

Fabric– I want to use some of the Pendleton mini-houndstooth light weight tropical wool, with the solid cream wool for the inset panel.

Buttons– I have plenty of covered buttons already, unfortunately, all 3/8″, when it looks like I need 3/4, around the bodice, half a dozen, another half dozen around the skirt trim, and four smaller ones on the cuffs.

The *Deep Breath* parts so far are- that Collar embroidery, the trim (WELT?!), and fitting.  I should do some research into what the welt implies about construction. I bet someone in our group has strong opinions on this. 🙂 I hope so!

Next, measuring for alterations, etc.

Skirt #0162 Blog Review 2

My Skirt is done! Now the point review, links to skirt posts…

Skirt #0162, ensemble with Blouse #4925

Blog post points, 1 point each? I started this site to learn how to blog, set up the site, looked forward to getting a pattern, visited fabric stores while waiting to see what kind of patterns I’d get. I posted several entries getting ready for the first pattern. These posts are about the skirt:

Instructions & Changes– this pattern had them and I would change some of them:
–I was surprised that the layout included pieces with opposing up & down directions, back & front up, those wide side panel pieces down. I’m all in favor of efficiency but didn’t do this, afraid the nap would scream.
–I went back and marked the seam-matching point numbers on my  layout page, found that very helpful.
–I got the pleat direction wrong on my muslin for the back pleats, saw that they should open under the back piece, not flaring out under the side panels, made a note to myself. Pleats fold under the front and back panels.
–I am so spoiled by modern layouts that I wanted to copy the instructions into a program where I could add the Section Headings, as they were in an early page, for Alterations, Cutting, Pressing. I’d list the seams by name, the waist, hem, and  a special section with recommendations for buttons, waist finishing. Advanced options like lining, boning, interfacing should be highlighted, too.
–I serged fabric edges and pressed everything, as the instructions suggested, including the serged edges, so they wouldn’t add bulk.

Photos, a point each, up to 5. I worked on these, with an image editor called GIMP, since many images of paper pieces and otherwise low-contrast had to be optimized. I worked on composition, too. I hope you like them. Look at the links above. 🙂

Fit, Pattern & Garment Description- this long “day-length” walking skirt sits 3″ above the waist, at the ankle in front, slightly lower in back, but not to drag. It has a graceful fit over hips, flaring for a fuller swing in the back. I found the 25″ Waist description to be overly flattering in underestimation of the actual size. 😉 It is embellished with soutache braid (or use the scrollwork pattern included for couching). The two wide skirt side gores pleat under the narrow front and back panels. No facings or waist pieces are included.
–This pattern fit would probably be a modern pattern size 12? I have ready-to-wear sizes in my closet that range from 2-12, so who knows? Patterns from the ’50’s, I’d wear a 14. Now I alter for petite height. The waist and hips should be altered to fit each time this is made up.
–I thought it did not look like the photo because I don’t stand with my waist facing forward, emphasizing the “Virtual Bustle”!
–I like this skirt! It is comfortable to wear and the walking ease is lovely. I did catch the hem in my heel at one point when I had to reach down, was afraid I’d torn out some hand stitches, will have to be careful.
–Fabric used was a Pendleton Wool, tropical weight summer gabardine, see a blog post above.

Alterations– This skirt was too long for me. I shortened it. I was worried that I’d make a mistake with the overlap allowances for the  front opening, so cut the seam allowances wide, ending up taking them back off, after leaving a generous turned edge for a nice supportive “facing” edge.

Pattern Changes
–I checked the pieces, yet the front panel still seemed off in length. I will be very careful with my next patterns. I caught this at the Patternmaker step, before copying onto tissue paper.
–I considered ways to reinforce the front button panel, facing it entirely, opening both sides, either with button holes or snaps.
–I faced the waist with elastic instead of grosgrain ribbon, then took it off and reduced the waist size, reapplying the elastic, so it didn’t pull the waist and pucker.
–I narrowed the front panel lines above the pleat, following the hip lines, so they didn’t look wider at the top, a very unflattering image, I thought.
–I considered facing the hem, before I saw how big the circumference was! It still needed help, so I sewed in a line of horsehair, then whip-stitched a dark thin ribbon over it, since I could only find white horsehair.
–The soutache braid called for would have been very hard for me to find, estimate yardage (trusted my ability to goof and need more! 😉 ). I used a crochet thread, couching it on by hand, detailed instructions in a post listed above.
–Buttons- I used covered buttons, including adding a few small ones at the base of the back panel, at the top of those pleats.
–Next time, I would alter the pleat height to start just below the knee in back, more flattering. It was probably placed there for the original length of the skirt, and I didn’t think to alter that position when I shortened it.

Techniques, Skills- There is a post for the scrollwork embroidery used in place of the soutache. Easing the hip curves was important, may need a note for beginning sewers. This pattern was not difficult, could be made by beginning sewers, but having a good foundation will make a big difference in the final garment, reinforcement stitching, pressing at every opportunity, understitching, experience with fitting. Proceeding from stitching lines instead of outside edges of seam allowances is not basic, was very helpful.

Conclusions– I would recommend this pattern for others, really like this skirt. I would compare it to the Folkwear Walking Skirt Pattern, the advantage here being that the waist and hip silhouette may be more graceful without the back gathers seen on the Folkwear pattern. The narrow front and fuller sides and back of both are similar.

VPLL Checklist:
1. Ladies Skirt May 5, 1912, La Mode Illustree #0162
2.  Sewing skill, beginner to advanced, benefiting from added care taken.
3.  Rating 5 out of 5 (top). I loved this skirt, simple yet fun to embroider, fit, execute and wear!
4. Skill needed- This skirt would benefit from advanced sewing skills, experience with well-designed garments, so that techniques not described in the instructions could be added, like horsehair for the hem. Optional boning, heavy interfacing or lining are suggested but not described. Understanding these steps is assumed.
5.   Instructions- see above.
6. Fit/Sizing- see above.
7.  Alterations- see above

New books! Reply

These are so much FUN! My bookshelf had a void, now glowing with these:

  • The Edwardian Modiste, Frances Grimble. 85 Authentic Patterns with Instructions, Fashion Plates, and Period Sewing Techniques.
  • 1920’s Fashions from B. Altman & Company. Dover Publications.
  • Everyday Fashions 1909-1920, As Pictured in Sears Catalogs, Edited by JoAnne Olian. Dover Publications.
  • Everyday Fashions of the Twenties, As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs, Edited by Stella Blum.

I LOVE the “house dresses” and have all my fingers crossed that I get some patterns for these! They have really clever cutting lines, are practical and even flattering! The size proportions from the Modiste are a Stitch! Bust 32″, waist 22″, hip 39 1/2″. The idealized 40″ bust figure would fill out with a 30″ waist AND 57″ hip. Okay, I know they wore corsets, but what a change from today!

Those fitting rulers in the Modiste are a mystery! It’ll take some brain-bending (or at least reading the book) to figure those out…

Still waiting to receive my first patterns from the Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1912 Titanic Sewing Project…;-)