This pattern doesn’t include a neck facing piece, pretty common for the time, I understand. It would probably be authentic to finish off with a thin bias band, but I’m used to facings and wanted to add one here. Drafting one shouldn’t be difficult.
- I put the paper pattern pieces together, without any seam allowance at the shoulder, and placed a fold at center back. It looks smooth at the center back.
- the neck facing front edge fits under the bodice fronts that are folded back.
- I traced the chicken scratch copy onto another sheet of paper, correcting curves, deepening the back a bit across the lower edge.
- You can see the facing stay-stitched and serged on the wider edge.
- I re-checked the fit on the dress form. The neck, back and front all looked fine, but the center front that had looked adequate to fit nicely under the folded bodice front edge had shrunk terribly, some malicious version of the “closet disease” where clothes don’t fit anymore! See he earlier pix where it looked Fine?! Only because I rushed.
- I sewed it on anyway, didn’t re-do it. Oops, anybody else do stuff like folding over the edge you can’t see? The “3rd Hand” sewing tool sits under the left edge of my machine table, helps to rip mistakes. *Bonus below!
- Anybody know what this funny-looking press tool is? I love mine, use it often!
- The seam allowances are trimmed, staggered snips.
- Final pressing, should have been under-stitched, but I didn’t, hoping it’ll be okay under the collar.
Now onto the bias bands, front panel and finishing up. Parade pix, too! 🙂
*Bonus– The 3rd Hand is called the “Sewing Bird” in one of my favorite books, The Mary Frances Sewing Book, Adventures Among the Thimble People, by Jane Eayre Fryer. I found a first edition in a New Orleans bookstore, where I was looking for an L. Frank Baum book, The Enchanted Island of Yew, for my mom. The Sewing Bird is the little girl’s first friend in her gramma’s sewing room. I love this book! That New Orleans bookstore wanted $300 for it, out of my reach. But I have felt selfishly heartsick for that little bookstore, haven’t been back since (before Katrina).
Tools for Scroll Work:
- Crochet Thread. I used Aunt Lydia’s #10.
- A sharp needle. I like the John James long ones I used for smocking.
- Thread conditioner. This stitch confounds thread and it likes to snarl. I even iron it in. 😉
- A small-stitch machine line to follow.
I sewed the pattern onto the fabric over my tracing paper (helps to keep it smooth), with feed dogs down, slowly! You don’t want any puckering.
Gently pull the paper across the stitching lines to tear it off. Good luck with shredding, easier with practice. Now press it flat, no stretching.
I used the machine thread you see there to “couch” the crosheen in place. Run under the machine stitches, then pop up to catch the heavy thread at short intervals.
Come up and go down on the other side of the heavy thread, catching the machine line for strength. Pull it towards the outside of the curves, since it wants to roll in. Also, that cross stitch needs to run up & down straight across the machine line, or it’ll twist the heavy thread to one side. You can pull that out a bit, don’t pull it tightly, just snug. There’s a nice balance between loose enough to distort around those small stitches and tight enough to pucker. Good Luck!
I didn’t pre-wash the cotton threads and hope I don’t regret that! I didn’t cut the heavy thread, didn’t want to worry about hiding ends. I’m just sewing up and down the entire skirt length.
I hope I like it. 🙂 I hope you do too. 🙂